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how to compost chicken manure fast?
Chicken manure is a high-quality organic fertilizer resource that is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and a variety of trace elements. However, the direct application of untreated chicken manure to the soil may cause a series of problems, such as burning seedlings, polluting the environment, and spreading pests and diseases. Through composting treatment, chicken manure can be converted into safe and efficient organic fertilizer. Not only can the rapid composting of chicken manure improve the efficiency of resource utilization, it can also meet the urgent need for high-quality fertilizers in agricultural production. This article will provide a detailed introduction to the methods and key points of rapid composting of chicken manure.
Meaning of compost
Composting is the process of using microorganisms to decompose organic materials under certain conditions. In composting, microorganisms break down the complex organic matter in chicken manure into simple organic compounds, which eventually form stable humus.

Meaning of compost
The role of microorganisms in the composting process
The microorganisms involved in composting mainly include bacteria, fungi and actinomycetes. Bacteria are the most numerous and decompose quickly, playing an important role in the early stages of composting; fungi can decompose complex organic matter such as lignin and are important for the formation of humus in the later stages of composting; actinomycetes are more active during the high-temperature stage and help to decompose refractory organic matter. These microorganisms secrete enzymes to decompose the protein, carbohydrates, fats and other components in chicken manure, converting them into carbon dioxide, water and humus.
Composting process of chicken manure
Temperature rise stage of chicken manure
Once composting has started, microorganisms multiply rapidly using readily decomposable organic matter, releasing heat and raising the temperature of the compost. This phase usually lasts several days and the temperature can rise from the ambient temperature to 40–50°C.
High temperature stage of chicken manure
When the temperature reaches above 50°C, thermophilic microorganisms become active, further decomposing organic matter and raising the temperature of the compost to 60–70°C. At this stage, most pathogens, insect eggs and weed seeds are killed, while the decomposition of organic matter accelerates.
Cooling stage of chicken manure
As the amount of readily decomposable organic matter decreases, microbial activity gradually weakens and the temperature of the compost begins to drop. At this point, mesophilic microorganisms once again become the dominant flora and continue to decompose the remaining organic matter.
Cooked stage of chicken manure
The temperature of the compost is close to ambient temperature, the decomposition of organic matter is almost complete, the compost material has formed stable humus, and the compost has reached maturity.
Preparation before composting
Chicken manure treatment
Remove impurities
Chicken manure may contain impurities such as feathers, undigested feed, gravel, and plastic fragments. These impurities can be removed using a sieve or by hand to ensure the quality of the compost. For example, use a sieve with a mesh size of 5–10 mm to sift the chicken manure to remove larger impurities.
Adjust moisture content
Fresh chicken manure generally has a high moisture content of 70% – 80%. Excessive moisture content will affect the aeration of the compost and inhibit microbial activity. The moisture content can be reduced by adding absorbent materials or a solid-liquid separator. If absorbent materials such as sawdust or rice husks are added, mix them with the chicken manure in a ratio of 3:1 – 4:1.

Adjust moisture content
Principles for selecting a site for a composting plant
High and well-drained
Choosing a site at a higher elevation can prevent rainwater from accumulating and prevent the compost pile from being soaked. Good drainage can be achieved by the natural slope of the site or an artificial drainage system, such as installing drainage ditches around the site or a drainage slope of not less than 0.3% – 0.5%.
Well ventilated
Air circulation provides microorganisms with sufficient oxygen and promotes the decomposition of organic matter. You should avoid choosing a confined, poorly ventilated space for composting, such as a valley bottom or enclosed warehouse.
Keep away from water sources and residential areas.
The composting process may produce leachate and odors. In order to protect water sources from pollution and reduce the impact on residents’ lives, composting sites should be kept at a certain distance from water sources and away from residential areas (the distance is determined according to local environmental requirements).
Construction of a composting site
Floor treatment
If you are composting on the ground, you can first compact and level the ground. You can also lay a layer of gravel or bricks about 10–15 cm thick to improve the ground’s air permeability and drainage. For long-term composting sites, you can consider concreting the ground and providing a drainage slope and drainage holes.
Sun and rain protection (optional)
When composting in the open air, you can build a sunshade net or a simple rain shelter. The sunshade net can block some of the sunlight to prevent the compost temperature from rising too high, which would affect the activity of the microorganisms. The rain shelter can prevent a large amount of rainwater from entering the compost pile, which would lead to excess moisture and nutrient loss. The shading rate of the sunshade net can be selected from 50% to 70%. The height of the rain shelter should not affect the composting operation, generally 2-3 meters.
Additive preparation
Carbon source material
Chicken manure has a high nitrogen content and a low carbon-to-nitrogen ratio. A carbon source needs to be added to adjust the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio, so that microorganisms can grow and decompose organic matter better. A suitable carbon source can provide energy for microorganisms and promote the stable progress of the composting process. Common carbon sources include crop stalks (such as corn stalks, wheat stalks, rice stalks, etc.), wood chips, leaves, peat, etc.
Microbial inoculant
Microbial inoculants can accelerate the composting process and improve composting efficiency. The beneficial microorganisms in the inoculant can decompose the organic matter in chicken manure more quickly, shortening the composting cycle. There are various microbial inoculants available on the market, including single-strain inoculants (such as Bacillus species) and complex microbial inoculants. Complex microbial inoculants, which contain microorganisms with multiple functions such as those that decompose cellulose, degrade proteins and deodorize, are usually more effective. When choosing, pay attention to the quality and scope of application of the inoculant, and it is best to choose one that is specifically designed for composting organic waste..
Other auxiliary materials
If the chicken manure is too acidic or alkaline, it will affect the activity of microorganisms. When the chicken manure is acidic, you can add lime (calcium hydroxide) to increase the pH value; if it is alkaline, you can add acidic substances such as sulfur powder and superphosphate to lower the pH value. Generally, adding 1–2 kg of lime or 0.5–1 kg of sulfur powder per cubic meter of chicken manure can appropriately adjust the pH value. The suitable pH range for compost is between 6.5 and 8.5. In dry areas or when moisture is easily lost during the composting process, a water-retaining agent can be added. Water-retaining agents can absorb and retain moisture to maintain the suitable moisture content of the composting materials. Common water-retaining agents include polyacrylamides and starch graft copolymers. The amount added is generally 0.1% – 0.5% of the weight of the composting materials.

Additive preparation
Composting methods
Composting in windrows
Make compost heap
Mixing the materials: Mix the treated chicken manure, carbon source material, microbial inoculant (if used) and other auxiliary materials in a certain proportion. You can use a loader, mixer or shovel to mix the materials manually to ensure that they are evenly distributed. For example, first pile the chicken manure and carbon source material in layers, and then use a loader to repeatedly turn and mix the pile 3-5 times to thoroughly mix the materials.
Pile shape and size: The mixed material is piled into a stack, with a base width of 2–3 m, a height of 1–1.5 m, and a length of 5–10 m or more depending on the amount of material. The sides of the stack can be trimmed into a trapezoid shape, with a wide base and narrow top, to ensure the stability of the stack. When stacking, a layer of coarse branches or other well-ventilated material about 10–20 cm thick can be placed at the bottom to increase ventilation.
Compost management
Ventilation management: Stacked compost mainly relies on natural ventilation, and ventilation pipes can be inserted during the stacking process to enhance ventilation. The ventilation pipes can be made of bamboo, PVC pipes, etc., with a diameter of 5-10 cm. Holes are punched in the pipe walls, with the hole spacing being 10-20 cm. Ventilation pipes are inserted every 1–2 m along the length of the pile, with a depth of 2/3–3/4 of the pile height. During the composting process, the ventilation should be checked regularly. If poor ventilation is detected, the position of the ventilation pipes can be adjusted or the number of ventilation pipes can be increased.
Temperature and turning management: During the composting process, the temperature of the compost should be monitored regularly. Use a thermometer to measure the temperature at different depths of the compost pile (e.g. surface, middle, bottom). When the temperature rises to 55–65°C, the compost has entered the high-temperature phase. At this time, the temperature should be maintained for 3–7 days, and then the first turning should be carried out. The compost can be turned using a loader, a turning machine or manually with a shovel. Turning the compost turns the outer material into the inner layer, so that the material is heated evenly and the oxygen supply is increased. After the first turning, the compost is turned every 3–7 days depending on the temperature. The whole composting process generally requires 3–5 turns. After each turn, the position of the ventilation pipe can be adjusted appropriately to optimize the ventilation effect.
Moisture adjustment: During the composting process, pay attention to the moisture content of the materials. If the materials are too dry, spray them with water to keep them moist. Spray evenly to avoid excessive moisture in some areas. If the materials are too moist, add some dry carbon source materials or spread the pile out to dry in the sun for a period of time after turning the pile to evaporate the moisture.

Composting in windrows
Composting tank compost
Design and construction of the composting tank
Tank structure: The composting tank is usually built with materials such as concrete, bricks or metal sheets. The size of the tank is determined according to the processing capacity. A common tank is 2-5 meters wide, 10-20 meters long and 1-1.5 meters deep. The bottom of the tank should have a certain slope (usually 1%-2%), and a drainage outlet should be installed at the lowest point to drain the leachate. The walls of the tank should be smooth to reduce friction between the material and the walls.
Ventilation system: Forced ventilation is required for tank composting. The ventilation ducts can be laid on the bottom or walls of the tank. The ventilation ducts are generally made of PVC or steel pipes with a diameter of 10-20 cm. The pipes are evenly distributed with ventilation holes, with a diameter of 2-5 mm and a spacing of 10-20 cm. The ventilation system blows air into the composting material through a fan. The air volume and air pressure of the fan should be selected according to the size of the composting tank and the amount of material. Generally, the ventilation rate is 0.05–0.2 m3 per minute per cubic meter of material.
Compost operation and management
Material loading: Load the mixed chicken manure and additives into the composting tank. The filling height generally does not exceed 3/4 of the depth of the tank to allow for some space for ventilation and material expansion. During the loading process, it is possible to layer the material, with each layer being 30–50 cm thick. Each layer can be compacted appropriately to ensure the stability of the material.
Temperature, humidity and ventilation control: During the composting process, the temperature and humidity of the compost are monitored in real time using a temperature sensor and a humidity sensor. When the temperature reaches 55–65°C, the ventilation system is switched on to ventilate the pile, and the ventilation volume is adjusted according to the temperature change. If the temperature is too high, ventilation can be increased; if the temperature is too low, ventilation can be reduced or the material can be checked to see if it is too loose. For humidity control, similar to pallet composting, it is adjusted by spraying water or adding dry materials. When the humidity exceeds 60% – 65%, dry carbon source materials can be added or water spraying can be reduced; when the humidity is below 50%, water can be sprayed appropriately. Depending on the temperature and humidity, the material should be turned at appropriate times. You can use a turning device, such as a chain plate turner or rake turner, installed above the compost tank to turn the material and promote even fermentation. Generally, the material should be turned every 3–7 days.

Composting tank compost
Compost bin compost
Compost bin selection and preparation
Type selection: There are various types of compost bins on the market, such as wooden compost bins, plastic compost bins and metal compost bins. Wooden compost bins have good air permeability, but their lifespan is relatively short and they are susceptible to damp and rot. Plastic compost bins are lightweight and corrosion-resistant, but they may deform at high temperatures. Metal compost bins are sturdy and durable, but they are more expensive and prone to rust. You can choose the right compost bin according to your needs and budget. For example, for home gardening or small farms, you can choose a plastic compost bin with a capacity of 1–2 m³.
Placement and preparation: Place the compost bin in a well-ventilated area that is protected from the sun or rain. If the compost bin does not have drainage holes at the bottom, you can place a layer of gravel or perforated plastic sheets on the bottom to facilitate drainage. You can place some coarse branches or hay in the compost bin as a ventilation layer to improve the aeration of the compost.
Compost operation and management
Material loading: Mix chicken manure and carbon source materials in a certain proportion and then load them into the compost bin. Do not fill it too full, generally leaving 1/4 – 1/3 of the space to facilitate air circulation and turning. If it is a multi-layer compost bin
Temperature monitoring and turning: Measure the temperature inside the composter regularly with a thermometer. When the temperature rises, open the vents in the composter or turn the material with a mixing tool (such as a special compost fork) to increase the oxygen supply. Depending on the dryness of the material The frequency of turning the contents of a small compost bin can be relatively low, generally once every 7–10 days. During the turning process, the contents of the bin can be emptied and refilled to ensure thorough mixing and aeration of the materials.

Compost bin compost
Judging the maturity of compost
Physical index judgment
Color and appearance: Mature chicken manure compost is dark brown or black in color, with a loose, granular or powdery texture, and is clearly distinguishable from the original chicken manure. If the compost material is still light yellow in color or contains undecomposed large pieces, it may not be fully composted.
Smell: Ripe compost has a pleasant earthy smell or a smell similar to that of leaf mould. If there is a pungent ammonia or foul smell, the compost is not ripe yet, possibly due to poor ventilation, too much moisture or insufficient composting time.

Judging the maturity of compost
Temperature indicator judgment
As the compost matures, the temperature will gradually decrease and stabilize. When the temperature of the compost decreases to close to the ambient temperature (the difference is no more than 5°C), it generally means that the compost has basically completed the process of decay. After the last turning, if the temperature remains stable at a low level (e.g. 20-30°C), it can be preliminarily judged that the compost is mature.
Judging by chemical indicators
Carbon-nitrogen ratio determination: The carbon-nitrogen ratio of mature compost is generally around 15-20:1. The C/N ratio of compost can be tested by laboratory analysis or using some simple carbon-nitrogen ratio determination tools. If the C/N ratio is too high, it indicates that the organic matter in the compost has not decomposed completely; if it is too low, it may lead to excessive release and loss of nitrogen when the compost is used.
pH measurement: The pH of mature compost is generally between 6.5 and 8.5. Measuring the pH of the compost with pH test strips or a pH meter may affect the effectiveness of compost application in the soil if the pH is not within the appropriate range. In addition, the nutrient content of the compost, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, can be tested to determine the fertility level of the compost.

chicken fertilizer pellets
Through the above scientific and reasonable methods, chicken manure can be quickly converted into high-quality chicken manure organic fertilizer. These mature chicken manure composts can be further processed in the organic fertilizer production line to produce powdered or granular organic chicken manure fertilizers suitable for storage and sales, providing strong support for agricultural production.